Thursday, August 31, 2006

Day 55 (Thu) Hike #4: Telluride to St. Sophia on Telluride trail

For the fourth and final hike of the day, I did the Telluride trail from town up to St. Sophia, the gondola station at the top of the mountain. It was pretty steep in parts, and after the other 3 hikes I was dragging my feet but I made it. Now I'm going to take the gondola back down to Telluride and get something to eat (maybe Smuggler's restaurant). Suffice it to say I'm a bit tired.

I haven't seen Mag and Ed so far today but Mag sent me an SMS which said she and Ed were planning to see the free "Four Feathers" movie in Elks Park, where the movie was last night, at 20:30.

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Day 55 (Thu) Hike #3: above St Sophia

I decided to do some more hiking before returning to the gondola so I'm hiking the service road above St Sophia. I won't go far because I don't have much gear or supplies and it still looks like rain. The trails around here are often steep, good for the heart and I can still manage in my sandals.

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Day 55 hike #2: Mountain Village to St Sophia

I'm hiking from Mountain Village to St Sophia at the top of the gondola run. I lost the trail but I can find my way by sighting the gondola cable. The skies threaten rain but so far I am dry.

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Day 55 (Thu) photos of hike #1: Bear Creek

Photos (notice I'm wearing my biking sandals): top - Bear Creek 2 mi hike. Bottom: Bear Creek waterfall

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Day 55 (Thu) morning hike #1 Bear's Creek (photos delayed)

(Hi I don't have a GPRS connection so I can't post photos. I will post the photos later when I can)

This morning I hiked the approximately 2 miles from Telluride to the Bear Creek Falls. I have only my cycling sandals, but they were adequate for this hike although I couldn't hike trails much more rugged than that. I'll take the gondola to St. Sophia at the summit and try some hiking there.

I'm in pretty good shape now, though I think recumbent conditioning transfers less directly to hiking than does safety bicycle conditioning, so it was a reasonably challenging hike. I left the trail head around 09:30, arrived between 10:30 - 11:00 and spoke with a Daoist hippie named Christopher. He remarked that Telluride was a "fine example of the American hedonistic lifestyle". And recommended that instead of reading books and "educating" ourselves, we should get knowledge from our ancestors and see the world "through the eyes of a child". Interesting guy.

I felt some clarity in my thoughts on this hike. It is the disadvantage of the road cycle tourist that one can never escape the automobile, though traffic is quite low in some places. I thought about doing the Appalachian Trail next year in 2007. I'll keep thinking about that as it is a very difficult undertaking, more difficult than cycling the US, in my opinion.

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Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Day 54 (Wed) evening talk with Dr. Ed

Warning. This post contains personal thoughts and feelings unrelated to bike touring. In other words, it isn't just inane blog chatter about how everything is wonderful and life keeps getting better each second.




Wed August 30, 2006 23:00. I fell asleep during the free movie "Return to Oz" and I think Mag did too. Dr. Ed apparently enjoyed the movie and said it was one of the weirdest movies he had ever seen.

After the 3 of us packed up our tent footprints from Elk Park in Telluride (about 22:30), the movie venue, Dr. Ed and I went in to their hotel lobby to discuss plans for the next day (Thursday). I have been having the "three's a crowd" feeling around Mag and Dr. Ed because they are obviously very close. Mag doesn't rely on me the way she used to before Dr. Ed's arrival and Mag and I are more acquaintances than friends now (Dr. Ed, though, is an impressive man. I enjoy discussing bike touring stuff but also medical issues and particularly microbiology). I get lonely riding on my own sometimes, but I have been enjoying a greater reliance on my own wits as I have been cycling on my own. I've been taking charge of my journey, if you will.

I was both surprised and touched when Dr. Ed told me he likes having me around and thinks we should ride together (as opposed to me riding south on my own towards Durango, CO ahead of them - I wasn't going to "ditch" them). I was a rather confused last night, and I'm still confused about my feelings towards Mag. Dr. Ed and I spoke for quite a while about things he had learned about balance in his life, and I admit I wasn't a very focused conversationalist but it helped to develop the friendship between Dr. Ed and I. How Mag feels, is a mystery to me. Whether she does like me in a sterile, reserved way or is merely afraid of carrying her own water through Utah and Nevada I can't say. Certainly she is a strong person and could easily manage crossing the desert, should Mag's and my journeys diverge.

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Day 54 (Wed) stuck in the gondola

20:05. The concert finished at 20:00, now some of the people are packing the gondola to return to Telluride. I'm stuck in the Gondola with 6 other people, we've been sitting here a while. At least we aren't cold. I hope this thing starts up soon so I can get to the "Return to Oz" movie...

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Day 54 poor little puppy

This little puppy is whimpering in his cage inside an SUV at the campground. Poor little fella. At least the windows are rolled down so he isn't too hot.

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Day 54 Camp, $ lodging, concert, movie

I'm settled in at the Town Park campground. All 20 some sites were full but I parlayed with a couple working the film festival to share their site ($ about 5). Lodging is expensive here; Mag and Ed got a room with shared bath for $100. Many are $200 - 300 or more. I will go to a free music concert at 18:00 in Mountain Village, then a free movie 'Return to Oz' (1985) at 20:30 in Telluride.

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Day 54 Free Theresa Anderson concert

I'm at the Sunset Theresa Anderson concert in the Sunset Plaza of Mountain Village. She is playing different sorts of music and sort of has a Joan Jett/Alanis Morrisette thing happening. Sometimes she plays the violin, sometimes sings into the violin, sometimes plays the guitar.

Ironically, I'm sitting next to Shawn, the clerk from the campsite, and his friends. Shawn lives here year round and does computer tech support in winter.

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Day 54 (Wed) How to keep bears out of your camp

The advice from the information posting at the Telluride Town Park camp site: "avoid sexual activity". Do the bears want to join in?

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Day 54 (Wed): Mag ETA Telluride 4 PM MT

Mag received my text message and just called me with her status. She is between Placerville and Sawpit, and her current ETA to Telluride is 4 PM MT.

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Day 54 (Wed) Telluride activities

I'm hanging out in Telluride checking out the town. It is situated impressively; the mountains, hiking and biking trails are walking distance from the center of town. Naturally it is touristy.

There is a film festival and other entertainment starting up in town. A lady who vacations here regularly said that just in the last day it is becoming busier as film crews arrive. In the coming days, accomodation will be fully booked, restaurant seatings will be hard to come by, and the sidewalks will fill with people gawking at the (few) celebrities who will be in attendance. Season film passes are sold out and they have priority to see the films (people paid hundreds on up to thousands for the passes according to her story). I'm not sure if I'll be able to see any of the films unless I want to see the late night shows starting at 9 PM or 11 PM depending on the film.

I rode the gondola up to the summit at St. Sophia, over to mountain village on the other side and then the last gondola to the Town Hall. I'm not sure if I'll be staying in regular accomodation tonight or camping, so I bought a Patagonia capilene long sleeve shirt for extra insultation (40% off, $24.72 with tax). The accomodation is upscale/pricey here so I don't think I'll get my own room though I'll go in with Mag & Ed if they are willing to do that. Otherwise the Town Park campground has showers and primitive sites for $12, I believe. Historically, Telluride's overnight low temperature in August is 37 F. Though the actual weather forecast appears more like high 40s.

Presumably Mag and Ed are on their way here to Telluride and should be here around 2 PM. I'll send Mag a text message to see if she is OK.

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Day 54 (Wed) gondola to Station St. Sophia (summit) & Mountain Village (other side of mountain from Telluride)

Photos: top - free gondola ride to summit and Mountain Village, bottom - view from Station St. Sophia at the summit

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Day 54 (Wed) 0730 arrival in Telluride

It got pretty chilly last night but fortunately I bundled up and closed up the tent vents. I got up at 6 am and was on the road by 0630 climbing up the keystone. There was a construction delay but I arrived in Telluride just after 0730. I will meet Maggie and Ed here later today. There is a free gondola to Mountain Village, I will go there after I check out the (touristy) town.

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Tuesday, August 29, 2006

Day 53 rough camp before "The Keystone" (hill) into Telluride

I'm rough camped near the Sheriff station on Ilium road, at the base of the "Keystone", which is the major climb before Telluride (as a local in Sawpit suggested). I made contact with Mag; I will meet them in Telluride tomorrow. They are staying in Ridgway tonight so they will have the big climb over the 8,970 foot Dallas Divide, descent, and red canyon scenery tomorrow.

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Day 53 (Tue) 19:45 near nightfall, Telluride

Mag and Dr Ed advised me to stay in Ridgway where they had booked their motel for another night. Impulsively I decided to leave Ridgway at 15:30 to see how far I could get to Telluride. I was climbing in my 1-1 and 1-2 gears for more than 2 hours until 17:45, when I reached the summit of the 8,970 foot Dallas Divide, then I had a huge downhill run.

Past Placerville, I went through a big red canyon (my camera can't do it justice but look for it on Maggie's blog). I will go to Telluride or rough camp along the way, depending on my progress, energy level, and impending nightfall.

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Day 52/53 (Orvis Hot Springs resort) Dear Penthouse Forum...

Dear Penthouse Forum,

When I got back from dinner at the True Grit, imagine my surprise to my six naked 21.5 year old Air Sweden stewardesses in the main pool. "Come here and service us now!", they demanded.




Well, nothing like that happened. But it was quite interesting. I went for a soak at 10 PM. During the day, there were a few nice looking ladies though many opted to wear bathing suits except in the smaller pools, for modesty (the men almost universally were naked, which would be great if I were a gay man). The "night crowd" is quite a bit different, after 10 PM when the pool is closed to the public, then only overnight guests (campers or people staying in one of the 6 rooms) can use the facilities. While at night the couples mostly kept to themselves to do, well, couple type things lurking in the corner, the remaining single women (few in number though they were) or men for that matter were friendly at night, and nobody wears a bathing suit at night. The disadvantage is that there are fewer (single, reasonably young) ladies with whom to interact. They are open all night to overnight guests, even at 3 AM one can enjoy the 110F lobster pot (which I did).

Fortunately, there was a nice woman (sans vetements) enjoying the 100 F waters of the main pool. I passed her a few times without speaking but then I said hi and we struck up a conversation about the pool itself and other insignificant matters. It is strange, being interested in a woman, maybe asking her out, and both of us were naked, although hidden by both the water and under cover of darkness (she was staying in the indoor accomodation, I was camping). Everybody has so much mystique, and the waters feel great as the air gets colder. I don't have a photo, cameras aren't allowed in the bathing area for obvious reasons, and my mobile doesn't have a flash anyway. The conversation went reasonably well; I was trying to get my flirt on, so we agreed to talk more the next day and grab some lunch. I should clarify that I'm not interested in any sort of casual sexual fling (I can't say if she was or not); I just wanted to flirt and get to know her, maybe go out. I turned it around 11 PM.

At nearly 8,000 feet, camping is pushing my existing REI nooksack sleeping bag which I think it having compressed fibers, which make it less warm (I'll look for another bag, down this time). So I got up at 3 AM and enjoyed another soak partly to warm up but it was nice anyway.

She's a bit older than I am (I haven't decided if I should say her name yet, for now I won't). I saw her in the morning during my 7 AM soak and for some reason I was either tripping over myself or we couldn't recover the same mystique or chemistry we had before. There were some other nice ladies there, many with boyfriends of course but a few others were single though I didn't have any good conversations, more than just a mutual "hi".

Today (Tuesday August 29) there aren't many ladies around the pool, mostly men or older couples. I'll go into town to get some food or whatever. Since I am camping for only one night, I have to have my tent packed by 11 AM but I can continue to use the facilities until 10 PM, though that wouldn't make sense because it would be treacherous to travel by bike at such an hour.

I'll head to Telluride today though I'm not sure what time I will leave. It isn't that important because it is only about 37 miles, albeit in mountainous terrain. I think Mag and Ed will also go to Telluride today though I don't know their specific plans.

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Monday, August 28, 2006

Day 52 (Ridgway, CO) dinner at True Grit

Our dinner at True Grit: American classics done well. I had an enormous bowl of spaghetti for the carbs, Mag had steak which she said was too well done, and Dr Ed had meatloaf. We shared an onion appetizer and Mag and Ed shared a blueberry pie a la mode. I rode back to the hot springs and had an evening soak.

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Day 52 clothing optional Orvis hot springs

Photo: Gail, Mindy, and Annie of Orvis Hot Springs (I585 County Road #3 970-626-5324 www.orvishotsprings.com) near Ridgway CO. Mag and Ed are staying at a motel ($69 + tx for 2). I'm staying at the clothing optional Orvis Hot springs ($24 for 2 days resort use and 1 night camping). I didn't wear a bathing suit. There are several geothermal pools, ranging from 90 F to the 110 F 'lobster pot'.

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Day 52 lunch at Galloping Goose Ridgway

Photo: lunch at Galloping Goose bakery (53 US hwy 550 unit 10 Ridgway CO 81432 970-626-5531). I had the roast beef sandwich with tasty onion straws, Mag had the elk burger (I tried it; very similar to beef), Ed had a regular burger. $33 with tip for 3

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Day 52 (Mon) Ridgway and plans

Passing the Ridgway reservoir on the way to, well, Ridgway. See Mag's blog for more photos because she has a very nice camera. A warm showers host in Ridgway has contacted us with an offer of lodging. Mag, Ed and I plan to visit the hot spring in town. After that, I believe that Mag and Ed plan to stay in town; I might stay or go to Telluride.

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Day 51 evening lodging

Mag and Ed got a room at the America's Best Value Inn ($59 + tax for 2). Incidentally, Jason returned to the Colorado (mountain bike) trail so I was on my own. I stepped in to a Baptist church to find lodging but was turned away (typical for a city of this size). I was able to get camping rights while talking with the little girl, Akayla. After dinner, I set up my tent and turned in.

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Sunday, August 27, 2006

Day 51 My cycle race in Montrose, CO

Local resident Akayla asked for a demonstration of my recumbent bike. After I rode it she said she was a very fast rider and challenged me to a race from the car to the garbage can and back (perhaps 150 feet), me on my loaded recumbent and her on her Huffy sea breeze. I did beat her but I admit she was fast (27 sec vs 30 sec). We talked until I met Mag & Ed for dinner at the Red Barn at 1830.

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Day 51 Cimarron; sunny, climbing 4 pizza

The little store in Cimarron, CO didn't have much and we were hungry after 45 miles of hilly terrain, including 3 mountain passes (not like Monarch, but still passes, climbs of over 1000 feet then 40 mph descents for miles). He sold us 2 pizze out of his personal freezer for our lunch. Today is sunny and not too hot, much nicer than yesterday's winds and hail. I think it is the best scenery yet.

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Day 51 Blue mesa reservoir

Photos: riding with Dr. Ed and Mag through the Blue Mesa reservoir between Gunnison and Montrose. The lunar landscape has rolling hills and winds through several lakes. The traffic is light and the shoulders are wide.

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Day 51: morning in Gunnison

I awoke at about 5:30 am and couldn't get back to sleep. I should have done something productive but I stayed in bed until nearly 7 am, then got up for my continental breakfast (at the Alpine Inn). I'm supposed to meet Mag & Ed at the Safeway at 8:30 am.

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Saturday, August 26, 2006

Day 50 dinner w Jason 20,000 mile rider


Photo: Dinner at Mario's Pizza in Gunnison with (from left) Mag, Dr Ed, Jason, and me. Jason left Prudhoe Bay, AK in June 2005 on a meandering route to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego some 20,000 miles. Read his full story at http://www.tourparabienestar.com.

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Day 50 evening accomodation

I'm staying with Jason tonight and we're talking all about travelling and bicycle touring, as you might imagine (his website again: http://www.tourparabienestar.com). We're at the Alpine Inn; Jason wanted a hot tub and pool which I used and enjoyed, ironically he didn't get a chance to use them. It was expensive by my standards, about $36 for each of us to share a room with 2 queen size beds.

Mag and Ed are staying across town at the Quality Inn.

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Day 50: COOOOLLLLD here

(my mobile is working again, I guess it dried out)

I've hardly used most of the clothes I'm carrying it has been so warm thus far in our tour. Now I'm putting on all my clothes and I'm shivering. It is raining and cold here in Gunnison, perhaps because of the elevation of 7,500 feet and I'm hungry which tends to make my body cold.

Still no word from Mag. The library is closing so I won't have any way to receive a message from her until (and if) my mobile dries out and starts working.

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Day 50: my mobile not working, awaiting word from Mag

I'm waiting in Gunnison, hoping that Mag and Dr. Ed are doing OK. My mobile took in some water and was behaving erratically so I turned it off so it can dry. It is possible that Mag has already sent me a message but I can't receive it. I will send an e-mail to her phone telling her that my mobile is not operational...

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Day 50: trials on the ride after Monarch, Sargeant, CO to Gunnison, CO

Amazingly, the ride from Sargeant to Gunnison has been in many ways more challenging than the ascent to Monarch summit this morning from Maysville. I was lucky that I started pretty early up to Monarch and the weather, all things considered, cooperated with just light rain.

However, from Sargeant to Gunnison I had another front flat (my front tire is bald and full of cuts; I need a new one desperately. I'll put on my reserve tire, leaving me without a reserve, if I can't find one leaving me without a reserve tire, oh and this would be flat #8, I believe) and fought stinging hail, rain, and headwinds and hills at the same time.

I hope Mag & Ed are doing OK; Mag sent me a message that she successfully reached Monarch summit at 12:45, although I didn't receive the message until 13:15 because I was fixing my flat in a cell dead zone. Mag's message said that the weather for her ascent had been more challenging with rain and hail along the way.

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Day 50 Wheee! Descent from Monarch summit to Sargeant

I'm on a 10 mile descent from Monarch summit at about 6% grade. At the top of the descent I used brakes because of the wet ground and my bald front tire. Now it is dry I can full throttle. I have been going up to 66 kph, about 41 mph.

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Day 50 Hanging at Summit Lodge

I'm hanging out at the summit lodge resting and getting warm before I descend to the west. I wasn't cold when I was climbing, but I was concerned about being cold on the descent as it started raining and it is about 45 degrees. I'm wearing nearly all my clothes and drinking tea to warm myself. Hey, the sun came out and it is warming. I will leave soon. No word from Mag since I arrived at summit.

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Day 50: (Sat) 0900 Monarch summit (partly cloudy)

9 am. LIVE from Monarch Summit 11,312 feet! Although there was serious climbing, because I started at Maysville this morning, it was very manageable. It is nicely graded about 3% from Salida increasing to about 6% from Maysville to the summit. Traffic was very light early in the morning, increasing to moderate later. Not much view here; there is a tram (ski lift - $7) up the mountain but I won't take it. The weather partly cloudy and I've already been up to Pike's Peak.

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Day 50 (Sat) Monarch Summit 6 miles

I got up just before 6 am. I slept well other than a little too hot/ too cold during the night. I left camp by 0630 and just passed the 6 miles to Monarch sign (0705). Mag and Ed are presumably somewhere behind me or still in Salida. We had a planned rendezvous here in Garfield at 0930 but I am here so early so I will keep going and meet on the other side in Gunnison.

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Day 49 evening rough camp Maysville, CO

Last night Mag and Dr Ed stayed in Salida whereas I climbed up a bit more past Maysville to camp. The RV park wanted an outrageous $23 (1 person) so I stealth camped and made some pasta. It was rather awkward because none of the rocks were flat so I had to be careful not to let the stove fall over, but I managed cooking the pasta, spilling some water in the process. I will turn in at nightfall.

I hope that cycling this extra distance will give me an easy ascent to Monarch tomorrow.

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Friday, August 25, 2006

Day 49: Waiting for Mag & Ed in Salida

I'm waiting in Salida, CO about 23 miles from the 11,312 foot Monarch Pass - the high point on this ride across country. I left Jerry & Donna's cabin this morning while Ed & Mag were still asleep. Mag requested that I wait for them here in Salida but I haven't been in regular contact with her due to the spotty cell coverage in the mountains on hwy 50 between the vicinity of Canon City and here.

I'm pretty sleep right now. I'd better get some lunch and maybe take a nap. I haven't decided if I will stay here tonight, or head out to perhaps Poncha Springs, Maysville, or one of the campsites east of Monarch Pass to get an early start tomorrow. (I won't be going over Monarch today; I understated the earlier figure of 30-40 miles from Canon City).

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Day 49 Hwy 50 to Salida, CO

Photo: Wet Mtn Valley. It was a chilly morning, unusually so according to Jerry. I had breakfast and left before Mag and Ed got up - since I couldn't sleep much last night I figured the fatigue would catch up with me.

I got cold descending from their cabin on a mixture of dirt roads and pavement to I-50 during which I was zooming due to the I'm guessing 2000' drop. I'm feeling better now that I'm riding, though feeling sleep deprivation. I took one cat nap already (in Cotopaxi, CO) and will likely take more. My communications with Mag and Ed have been limited due to the spotty cell coverage in the mountains. The mountains do make for nice scenery, though.

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Day 49 (Fri) 4:30 am Not much sleep

4:30 am. I slept for a couple of hours but now I'm up (I'm a wreck, suffice it to say). I'll let Mag and Ed go ahead; I'm not sure if I will be able to ascend to Monarch pass (30 - 40 miles away) without more sleep. I may be able to get some sleep at the campsites or small towns on the way to Monarch.

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Day 49 (1 am) Insomnia - NOT FOR CASUAL READERS

I don't recommend reading this post if you are a casual reader; it has nothing to do with cycle touring, per se.






I have insomnia and I may not sleep much tonight. Reflecting upon this, I realize that staying here with Mag and Ed tonight was a mistake. I should keep my distance (i.e. cycle alone) because my own feelings are confused. I respect Ed and I am glad as Mag's friend that they have so much in common, yet I am also jealous and sad that Mag isn't interested in sharing her feelings with me.

Thursday, August 24, 2006

Day 48 Jerry and Donna's cabin

I left Colorado Springs several hours later than Dr Ed and Mag. They were planning to stay with their friend's relatives Jerry and Donna in a cabin above Canon City but because of the altitude (8000') and distance from town, Jerry was going to transport them and their bikes. I was prepared to find my own accomodation in Canon City, in the event that Jerry had already picked up Dr. Ed and Mag.

Fortunately after I got my flat, Jerry took the 3 of us and bikes in his car and fed us steak, potatoes, and salad.

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Day 48 Canon City, CO second flat repair


To be fair, I noticed the first slow leaking puncture last night; I just didn't fix it until this morning. Imagine my surprise when I got out of Denny's (general hunger and pancake craving) to find my front tire absolutely flat! I'm pretty cold because I got absolutely soaked in that hailstorm on hwy 115 from Colorado Springs so I'm changing my clothes to be dry and get warmer so I can deal with the flat.

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Day 48 16:15 Canon City CO deja vu

Mag (with Dr Ed) messaged me just after 1500 to tell me they arrived in Canon City (they left the hwy 115 Safeway around 1030). I didn't pass the Safeway until about 1315 and arrived in Canon City 1615, losing about 1,000 ft of altitude. It rained intermittently, at one point so hard it stung my skin and face and I was nearly blind. Fortunately that intensity was fairly short lived.

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Day 48 Mag & Ed on their way

Mag just called me, the airline delivered Ed's bike last night; they are on hwy 115 heading south. My host family is significantly north of Mag & Ed's so they have a big headstart especially since I haven't left yet. I'd better pack up my stuff and hit the road!

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Day 48 (Thu) Aaron's house Colorado Springs


I'm still at Aaron's house, getting a late start today (but I plan to ride to Canon City, CO today). I've been talking to Sandrine about her joining the ride, the planning of which is tricky because Ed has a fixed date to leave Colorado by plane(Durango, Sept 10th).

Right now, the plan is for Sandrine to fly to Salt Lake City, UT on August 31st and take a bus eastbound to meet me, and Mag and Ed if they are with me at that time. Sandrine can fly into and out of only major airports using her credit with Air Canada. She will fly out of Reno or Las Vegas, Nevada on September 18th. I recommended Reno because it is closer to the route.

I sent Mag a text message regarding her status and the bike, awaiting reply.

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Wednesday, August 23, 2006

Day 47 evening with Aaron & Janet (http://www.earthbytandem.com)

After Mag and I rode south from the Air Force Academy on the scenic but trecherous Santa Fe trail, Mag and I parted ways for the day. She went to the airport to rendezvous with Dr. Ed who will be staying together with Mag at Alan & Pat's in Colorado Springs (update: the airline doesn't have his bike, it went on a different plane, they should be bringing it by courier to Alan & Pat's house where they are staying around 10 PM maybe...).

I spent a few hours in Colorado Springs going to different bike shops like REI, Criterium Bicycles (6150 Corporate Dr Colorado Springs, CO 80919 719-599-0149), and Performance Bike. To get to Performance I had to ride down scary 3-lanes-of-whizzing-traffic for several miles and their store was quite small compared to the one in Seattle, so I left empty handed except for a patch kit. I was looking for a small handlebar bag but I didn't see any that I liked.

I had dinner with Aaron & Janet and I got to talk with them at length about their recent 14 month biking (& hiking) trip, practical issues with their bike and travelling, costs, and experiences with people. I won't post any pictures or describe it in more detail because they have their own website at http://www.earthbytandem.com.

Mag & Ed are hitting the road again south on 115 towards Canon City, CO, assuming that the airline delivers Ed's bike to Alan & Pat's house. I haven't decided if and when I'm hitting the road, because I really need to work out where Sandrine needs to fly in (August 13st) and out (September 18th) to fit into the westbound itinerary with a minimum of disruption. That, and I think my front tire is leaking air slowly so I'll take a look in the morning.

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Day 47 Air Force Academy tour 2

Photo: Lt Col Skarstedt explains the ejection system on an Air Force T-38. (He flew reconaissance missions and wild weasel in MD F4 Phantom jets until the 90s after the cold war ended. Now he is a history professor at the academy).

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Day 47 (Wed) Air Force Academy Tour

Mag arranged for us to get a tour of the Air force academy with Lt Colonel Skarstedt.
I cycled up from Aaron & Janet's house on the Santa Fe trail. Colorado Springs is connected by a system of trails; some are paved, some packed gravel, some rather loose gravel and dirt, which is fortunate because some of the main roads are rather trecherous because of all the traffic. The bike trail here was quite difficult with my road tires because of the grades with loose gravel, in fact I slid once and skinned my left leg a bit but no big deal.


Here comes the Colonel to start our tour, more later.

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Tuesday, August 22, 2006

Day 46 evening move to Aaron & Janet's house

Another warm showers host, Aaron & Janet, contacted Mag & me after we were already settled in at Alan & Pat's house. I was intrigued by Aaron & Janet's 14 month round the world biking odyssey from which they had only recently returned (see their website http://www.earthbytandem.com). So I decided to move to Aaron & Janet's house to spend the night, whereas Mag is staying and enjoying Alan & Pat's hospitality and beautiful home. I figure after 46 days Mag has earned a break from me! We will stay in touch so we can go to the Air Force academy tomorrow for our tour.

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Day 46 Garden of the Gods park



This huge public park is filled with enormous, oddly shaped rock formations. Viewing the formations is a pleasure thanks to full lane width bike paths and also pedestrian paths. We saw several climbers on the boulders, perhaps without permission of the park.

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Day 46 Manitou Springs

After leaving Pikes Peak, which was sadly overast, we are exploring the touristy but charming town of Manitou Springs. Mag samples one of about 7 mineral springs in the downtown area available for visitors to drink. All the restaurants are touristy but we were famished so we got sandwiches.

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Day 46 Pikes Peak summit



Photos: top - view from cog train window (we were seated next to a Swiss couple so I practiced my French). Middle & bottom: at the end of the cog train line 14,100 feet. There was a weather station and tourist services at the top.

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Day 46 Pikes Peak Cog rail 14100'

We're on Pikes Peak railway ($29 per adult), the longest and highest cog railway in the world up to the peak at 14,100 feet.

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Day 46 (Tue) Alan & Pat's house in Colorado Springs

Mag made me breakfast this morning... isn't she great? We're going to ride the cog train to Pikes Peak (14,000 feet, about $28 for 1 I think). It can be -10F up there, so Alan lent me a winter coat to wear.

I found out that another host family just got back from a 13 month round the world bike adventure; my plan is to stay with this other family while Mag stays here at Alan & Pat's and we hook up to do stuff tomorrow (Garden of the Gods, Air Force academy).

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Monday, August 21, 2006

Day 45 Monday dinner ride

We came to Colorado Springs on the right day. Alan, our host, invited us to join the Colorado Springs bike club Monday dinner ride. We are riding through a canyon and neighborhoods with million dollar properties. Afterwards the whole gang will have dinner at Alan's house.

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Day 45 Colo Springs with host family

Admittedly, my climbing muscles were a bit out of practice after so much time in the midwest plains but I'm sure using them now. After 42 miles of grinding up and descending we made it to Colorado Springs and quickly made contact with warm showers hosts Alan and Pat where we will stay tonight. I'm not sure about the remaining 2 nights before Dr Ed arrives by plane.

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Day 45 (Mon) up and down on Hwy 115 to Colo Springs

Hwy 115 from Canon City to Colorado springs has many climbs and descents and inspiring scenery. There are no services on this route; I started today with nearly 2.5 gallons of water. Side note: we have passed several prisons in this area.

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Sunday, August 20, 2006

Day 44 Misc Royal Gorge photos


Photos: top - 1/4 mi long, 1,050 foot high bridge in background; middle - view down into gorge from tram; bottom - Mag riding above gorge on bridge.

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Day 44 LIVE from scary high aerial tram

We bought passports to the Royal Gorge park ($17 for 1 adult after $4 coupon). We are on the aerial tram that goes over the gorge. We are 1178 feet up! 8 seconds to hit the river below if the cable breaks...

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Day 44 motel, climbing to gorge bridge

We checked in to the Travellers Inn in Canon City ($42 for 2, much nicer than in Pueblo); the chamber of commerce lady 'forgot' there are off brand motels so we found it ourselves. We left our baggage and are now grinding up the 10 miles to Royal Gorge in the heat. Must focus on climbing.

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Day 44 (Sun) noon arrival in Canon City, CO

The scenery here is a big change from Kansas and east Colorado. We finally are in the rockies though serious climbing has yet to begin. We went the 35 miles from Pueblo to Canon City. We will lodge in Canon then ride to Royal Gorge unloaded. Mag climbed up a bit through the mud to get a picture of the Canon City sign.

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