Signing off for now
I'm back in Seattle and I'll be staying here for a while getting my life in order. After that, I'm not sure if I'll remain here, meet Jen in Emeryville or what.
I'll be signing off this blog for now.
Labels: Bike Touring
Seattle, Jen arrives back in Emeryville
Quite a shock, going from Acapulco at about 32C being inside some strange noisy contraption and hours later it is just above freezing.
My bike and all my gear seem OK. I tried to get all my stuff together as quickly as possible but I just missed the 23:00 174 bus, so I took the next one half an hour later. My Dad met me downtown and drove me to his place.
I just spoke to Jen; she arrived safely in Emeryville by taxi.
Houston, Texas
Jen and I are in Houston. We both came together on Continental 885. Now we part; I go to Sea-Tac and Jen to Oakland. Unfortunately, she has a nearly 4 hour layover in Houston so she will arrive very late and then have to take a taxi.
Catching flight today at 14:45 PM
Were wrapping up everything so we can get to the airport at around noon and box up our bikes and get out of here. We ran into a couple living in Acapulco who offered us a place to stay but of course we told them we are flying out today. I took an outdoor shower using a bucket to try and get the sand and grime off me for a more comfortable flight.
Labels: Announcement
Diamante, last day waiting for plane
We´re OK. We left Acapulco and climbed over the mountain again to the south. We will spend our last day near the airport on the beach, etc. Jen is making arrangements to get home to Emeryville from Oakland aiport when she arrives late tomorrow on Tuesday.
Leaving Acapulco
Jen and I are trying to treasure our last few days in Mèxico before we catch our flight. We are going to climb the hill to get out of Acapulco Bay early this evening, when the heat will be less intense, then stay on the beach. We will be staying pretty close to the airport.
More fighting with Jen
Jen had a good time last night at the 2 movies, Children of Man and The Holiday, but then she felt sick after that because she hasn´t been eating well. Unfortunately, she was fighting with me this morning so I went off on my own to be in peace.
Acapulco: 2 more movies @ Cinemahorro
We saw 2 more movies (15 pesos per person), A UK film called ¨Niños del hombre¨ (Children of Man) about a bleak future of a war on immigrants by the British homeland security and total human infertility, and a lighter movie, El Descanso ¨The rest¨ about 2 ladies, an L.A. film producer and a British editor who swap houses. I recommend both.
23 Febrero - Acapulco Hot
Sometimes you´ll see people pushing orange juice in the streets, they sell a whole liter of fresh squeezed for 10 pesos, flagging down cars, etc. You get about twice the juice for the same price compared with a regular store.
After 2 nights in the tourist zone we rode back to the old town to stay at the Hotel Acapulco (150 pesos for 2). It is very hot so we are hiding in air conditioned places trying not to overheat.
22 Febrero - Acapulco
Jen is sticking around with me.
We found a theater called Cinemaahorro (Cinema savings) that at ticket prices of $15 is much cheaper than even discount Wednesdays at the fancy new Cinèpolis theaters. The movie we saw, La Criatura called Creep in English was a UK/German horror film. I was pretty scared although some others were laughing in the movie. You can´t go too wrong for $15.00.
We´re staying for the 2nd night at Hotel Bora Bora (200 pesos for 2). I think all the hotels have high vacancies during the low season. The problem is that the flunkies at the front desk don´t seem to be able to negotiate the price, unlike the way Mexicans negotiate the prices on many other items at the flea markets.
Wednesday (bargain) night at Cinèpolis
We´re seeing ¨Busca la Felicidad¨ (in search of happiness) at one of the Acapulco fancy Cinèpolis theaters. They are more expensive than the older theaters, though they are nice quality. On Wednesdays it is a reduced price of $29 per ticket.
21 Febrero - back in Acapulco in hotel zone
We´re back in Acapulco for the 2nd time. Admittedly, I like it more this time than the previous time when we were staying in the old downtown. The party the previous time at Hotel Acapulco was so loud we couldn´t sleep and the traffic is very congested and crazy with taxis weaving and buses not to mention private cars.
It is so hot during the day that we aren´t riding. Even walking I´m sweating like crazy. Jen gets frustrated because she is an outdoor person but it is so hot and humid between 10 am and about 430 pm. It will be quite an adjustment for me going to Seattle where it is 5C or so, compared with 32C or so here (some of you don´t think 32C with humidity is hot).
21 Febrero - Bahìa de Acapulco
Acapulco is a Bay, not open water. This makes it safe for swimming although it is less interesting without the big waves.
20 Febrero - Barra Vieja
Jen rode about 20km to the next village, then 20km back to see me. It seems that we´ll be hanging around together for the remainder of our time in Mèxico.
Genarita & her husband, the proprietors of the Puesto del Sol restaurant in Barra Vieja south of Acapulco. This is like many other low key restaurants on the beach, with tons of beachfront and few clients during the low season. We were their only clients during a whole 2 day period. They have a pool and open beach front - be very careful about swimming sometimes the waves and currents are strong.
One of the villagers has a pig farm, and the pigs run free, either playing or foraging for food. They seem quite intelligent and are more active than dogs during the day.
Genarita´s son, a fisherman, caught this flat fish to dry and sell to tourists as a mask. It does look like a human face.
20 February - Jen just walked in
Jen just walked in the little internet cafe at Barra Vieja so she hasnt left the area at least. Ill talk to her later.
20 Febrary - Barra Vieja, Gro. Stress, fight, Jen leaves
We have been staying at one of the many low key beach restaurants called Puesta del Sol. The proprietress, Genarita has been very nice to us and we camped last night.
Although both Jen and I have learned a lot, and this has been one of Jen's few travel experiences outside the US, it has been hard for her at times having to adapt to so many things like a different language, food, and customs and she's finally worn down and wants to return to the SF Bay area. Ever since the noise and chaos of Acapulco she has been restless.
For example, this morning I realized the nylon bag was missing and conjectured that dogs had taken it. We disagreed on the seriousness of losing a nylon bag, with her saying that she couldnt trust me and criticizing me for leaving it outside the tent where dogs could get it. I couldnt understand how she could be so upset about a nylon bag. I realize that she is just tired and ready to go home and she doesnt have a lot of energy left.
I know from experience that I need to give Jen space when she is a bad mood and that chasing after her accomplishes nothing except make her more angry. Around noon today she left, saying that she would see me at the airport (referring to our flight on the 27th, one week from today).
Ill be staying at the Puesta del Sol restaurant again tonight, camping there in case Jen returns. Tomorrow I plan to go in the direction of Acapulco and get a hotel room so I can see movies on Wednesday, the discount day.
I dont have a mobile anymore, so there is no easy way for Jen to reunite with me after tomorrow when I leave Barra Vieja. Jen doesnt have camping gear so she cant camp really although she could lie on the ground with her clothes on and she would be warm enough. She could also get a hotel room if she wanted. I think that people will help her and some will speak English if she decides to remain on her own during our remaining week in México. I hope she does return but I am at peace with her decision.
19 Febrero - Difficulties getting box for continental flight
For now, any other plans for our remaining time here in Mèxico have been put on hold. To my amazement, we called the Mexican Continental helpline and they told us that boxes are required for bikes but they don´t have any and can´t get any. In effect, we wouldn´t be able to bring our bikes on the plane unless we had our own box. We have been scouring various stores like costco, etc. for boxes and we have found some in parking lots but the best we can do is try to build our own franken box out of pieces of smaller boxes.
The continental desk was closed yesterday so we couldn´t talk to them in person at the Acapulco airport. Today on Monday they should be open so we will talk to them. We need to know that they will accept an improvised box, can supply a real box, or we´ll have to take the bus instead.
My bee-stung hand is doing better and my cold seems to have disappeared.
19 Febrary - Acapulco airport, Diamante no problem with bike box
South of Acapulco, the Diamante neighborhood is like US suburbia. Big box stores have mostly taken over, displacing the small family stores. Costco, Sams Club, etc. are there.
We returned to the airport to talk to a Continental airline representative in person. Recall that the telephone client service rep I spoke with earlier said that, in effect, we would be denied taking our bikes on the planes because boxes are required and they dont have them.
Fortunately, we were very relieved to find a helpful manager in the backoffice who said it was no problem because there was plenty of space on the plane. They would use garment boxes and we could partially disassemble our bikes when we arrive at the airport, and pay $100. Once again, a person who is willing to help makes all the problems go away.
18 febrero - shipping bikes will be hard, chaos & noise in Acapulco
There was a birthday party near Hotel Acapulco where we were staying last night from about 8 PM until about 2 or so in the morning. It was extremely noisy and Jen got pretty grumpy. Also, traffic is heavy and the exhaust fumes are disagreeable. Although Acapulco is not without charms, it seems to be following the standard developing city model of being destroyed by smog, noise, and cars.
In addition, shipping the bikes seems like it could be difficult. Continental charges $100 for bikes but they don´t have boxes, and bike shops at least the ones open on Sunday don´t have boxes either (bike shops receive their bikes in plastic bags). We will try to look for boxes at Office Depot. My challenge is greater since I have a recumbent bike, and recumbent bikes and airplanes don´t go together very well since recumbents are so bulky when shipped. Jen and I have decided that we will sell our bikes if we can get a reasonable offer to avoid having to ship them.
Lots of Mexicans are interested in my recumbent bike, although of course many of them don´t have much money so I don´t know if I´ll be able to sell it.
The noise, stress, and dirt has been getting to Jen and me today. We`re trying to get out of this city after figuring out what to do with our bikes. (I´ll be travelling with my folding Bike Friday in future)
17 febrero - Acapulco, Gro. Chaotic and noisy!
Getting into Acapulco from the north was stressful, with climbs in the heat, and a very narrow road with buses belching hot diesel fumes right in my face. At least we found a decent room at a reasonable price. Hotel Acapulco downtown near the water in the Col. Centro, with private bath for 150 pesos per night. We did have to carry our bikes up stairs.
The many mountains of plastic garbage we have seen in Mèxico. Plastics in the developing world especially have been a disaster. Soon the government will need to get involved to preserve the beaches and tourism, I´m not sure what they will do.
The bay of Acapulco.
16 febrero - Bicimotos Xavier de Tecpan, cyclist Damien
Xavier of Bicimotos Xavier in Tecpan de Galeana, Guerrero. He provides hospitality for travelling cyclists and hopes to tour himself soon.
Javier is building his own custom bike to sell at amusement parks in the US. It will have 4 wheels.
Javier (spelling inconsistent) is trying to undercut the existing Rhodes car which sells for about $1,500 in the US.
Xavier has a ready supply of discarded bikes from which to salvage parts, though many of his sales are new bikes.
Damien, a touring cyclist from France we met at Javier´s place.
15 febrero - Hacienda de Cabaña beach that requires crossing lagoon
The boat passage costs 10 pesos per person each way.
Getting our loaded bikes in the little launches wasn`t easy.
14 febrero - San Luis de la Loma
I feel a bit better after resting, I was able to cycle 50 km. We decided to stay at the beach here in San Luis de la Loma, Gro so I don´t need to push it. We try to get to a beach well before sunset at 1900 central time to give us time to set up camp. I´m not sure in my condition I could have made it in time to the next beach access.
14 Febrero - playa near Papanoa, Gro
I´ve been pretty out of it. Unlike Jen, who cycles vigorously even when she´s sick, my temperature goes up and I´m pretty out of it. I´ve been getting some rest and taking it easy. We´re in no rush at this point.
Oh, the photo is from Jen´s viewpoint on the rocks.
13 Febrero - Roberto the sculptor
This eccentric fellow Roberto was a mechanic in Vernon B.C. Canada but has lived in Mèxico for 33 years. He makes a living carving statues until his pension kicks in. He told us about the beautiful 35 year old Mexican woman who´s heart he is pursuing from a village about an hour bus ride away (he is 60). Las Barritas, the beach where we will camp is about 20 minutes away so we will have no problem reaching there before nightfall.
13 febrero - Zihuatanejo Guerrero
Jen are doing OK. I seem to have a slight cold but so far it isnt bad. We are in Zihuatanejo, we stayed in a room near the Pollo Feliz restaurant for 150 pesos. Since this is a swanky, touristy place accomodation is a bit more expensive. Jen thinks this city seems more modern than many where we have been. We try to watch our stuff in cities, usually we lose at least some small item. Generally we try to get our supplies and get out of the city since there is a lot of traffic so we can return to the many beaches.
We have our flight booked from Acapulco on Feb 27. We will arrive in Acapulco in a few days so we will probably continue down the coast perhaps as far as Puerto Escondido and then take the bus back.
I have never put my recumbent on a place but I will go to a bike shop in Acapulco for assistance breaking it down and getting it in a box. They charge $95 extra for bikes and I hope I can get my recumbent small enough so there are no charges beyond that.
Everyone is raving about
the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
12 febrero - Our first time surfing at Los Llanos beach Guerrero
Los Llanos by reputation is one of the best places around for beginning surfers, because the waves are fairly predictable and not too big. The experienced surfers are out there at about 730, but only a few remain when the winds kick up around 1100 because the surfing isnt too good by then.
I didn´t really manage to stand up on the board on a wave but I do understand the procedure better than I did. I have to paddle like crazy downwave then hop on and turn the board across the wave. It is much easier said than done.
The board rental is 50 pesos per hour, 200 pesos per day, or 500 per week. I couldnt surf more than 1 hour, and indeed Jen & I shared just a half hour. It is pretty tiring with all the rowing to catch the waves not to mention getting beat up when the board flies away (it was attached to my ankle with a lanyard). I disregarded the advice to stay near shore and went where the waves were a bit bigger, near where the more experience surfers were. Timing is very important.
Jen did a bit better than I did, at least she could surf a bit on her belly even though she couldn´t stand. I took this photo through Jens binoculars which is why it is rather blurry.
11 Febrero - leaving Zihuat. Guerrero
Sometimes even when we are leaving the city, friendly Mexicans want a photo op.
11 febrero - Làzaro Michoacàn no dental work now
I went for a follow up visit to a lady dentist here in Làzaro, expecting to get 4 more resin treatments. Her opinion was these other 4 cavities are very small, and I could go many years without them becoming more serious so I shouldn´t get them treated now. She did charge me 50 pesos to resurface the silver-mercury filling that Dr. Alvarado in Vizaino, Baja California did a month and a half ago. Imaging getting anything from a dentist in the states for less than 5 bucks!
11 Febrero, more on situation in Michoacan
From what we´ve heard, the situation in Michoacàn was pretty unstable about 6 months ago, presumably before the military convoys started arriving in force. There were burning vehicles in the streets and so forth, though I don´t think many people were killed. Now that the military is here it is pretty tranquil and locked down, I guess not many drug lords want to take on trucks of 40 soldiers with assault rifles. These soldiers look like 19 year old kids, perhaps similar to many US service troops heading to Iraq, and carry presumably fully auto assault rifles that look huge and very menacing.
If anything, I think the presence of the soldiers makes it quite safe for us here so you shouldn´t worry.
Possibly the recent instability in Michocàn is partly responsible for the low numbers of tourists we have seen, although local vendors for example Nacho´s mom in Playa Azul where we stayed said this is pretty typical. I think Americans don´t have time to see all these other beaches, they fly into a major resort like Cabo San Lucas or Puerto Vallarta for a few days and then leave. The tourist we do see are mostly surfers from California, Canadians, and Europeans with longer holidays.
11 febrero, arranging tickets to San Fran / Seattle for end february, lost mobile
Jen is starting work at the beginning of March & I´m planning to visit my Dad in Seattle. We´re researching flights from Acapulco (ACA) to Oakland, CA (OAK) and Seattle-Tacoma airport (SEA) respectively for each of us, for roughly the 26th or 27th of February.
I lost my mobile, since we don´t have that much time left here I´ll wait until I´m in the States to get another. Jen still has her mobile but it won´t activate from seasonal standby until February 24th, and she won´t start actually using it, listening to voicemails etc. until she is within US borders though you can leave a voicemail from the 24th.
10 febrero - Làzaro Cardenas, Michoacan
The central municipal market, which most cities have. Prices for basic goods, foods both raw and cooked are often better than in other markets. The catch is that the markets usually close in the early afternoon, though this one is open until 8 pm.
Roast chicken, one of our mainstay meals which we have with the included tortillas & salsa plus vegetables which we buy at other stores so it is fairly healthy. Buying individual tacos even at street vendors would be a much more expensive way to stay fed.
Jen got a free vision examination. She wasn´t necessarily impressed with the results but at least it was an interesting experience.
9 febrero - Acalpican, night @ Playa Azul Michoacan
Passing the time with our new friends Mariano and Saul in Acalpican, from their story one of the pivotal battle sites in the rebellion against the Spanish.
Nacho, pictured here with his mother, offered us a secure place to stay at his place in Playa Azul. Outside of the major tourist areas with airports, these beaches are nearly deserted outside of Christmas time and Semana Santa. Nacho is a fisherman but his parents make tourist knicknacks out of shells during the slow times and sell them during the busy season.
8 febrero - Caleta de Campos
Caleta de Campos, one of many mostly empty beach towns (except for locals). They see substantial tourist activity only during xmas and Semana Santa. At other times there aren´t enough tourists to fill the beaches.
I finally got my haircut for 30 pesos. Jen cut it in at her place in Emeryville the last time. It is so hot during the day (cycling) that I just needed to do it.
In Caleta de Campos, Michoacán
Were OK in the small but charming beach town of Caleta de Campos, Michoacán. South of Maruata the road becomes very challenging with steep grades and declines plus it is quite hot. I sweat like crazy without even moving in this heat. Most of the state along the coast is quite rural and the villages are small. It is full of pristine beaches which are cleaner than those in Puerto Vallarta because the government does not allow dumping of sewage as elsewhere.
This town has only dialup internet and no antivirus so we couldnt post any photos. The city of Lázaro Cardenas is much bigger so we can use internet there and post photos. I am still looking for another dentist to fill my remaining 4 mini cavities. I will try to do that in Lázaro.
Don't get soaked. Take a
quick peak at the forecast with the
Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
7 febrero Maruata Michoacan
My apologies with the orientation on the photos...
There are many government military vehicles on the roads, going to fight the drug lords. Apparently the northern cartel is trying to take over the south´s territory. Fortunately, the drug people do not attack tourists or Mexicans not involved in the drug trade, though the possibility of accidental casualties exists. We have seen no evidence that our safety is at risk due to drug activity.
They grow marijuana in Michoacan and we saw it for sale aggressively in Maruata.
German cyclist Marcus who was cycling who knows how far south, we think into central america (?)
Mike and his friend Pixel were trying a cycling snowbird itinerary in Mexico, staying for 6 days in Maruata when we came across them.
Apiza
This pig can have his fill from the garbage. There was a big 3 day weekend so the Mexicans were up partying late.
Sunset
A tarantula in grave danger of being mushed on the road. We moved him off the road, for his safety.
4 febrero in Tecomàn Colima
Jen and I are in Tecomàn, Colima. It is nice riding here, though it is hot during the day. Today we went to the turtle sanctuary (20 pesos each). The blogger interface isn`t responding so I am posting by email. I will post photos later.
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
4 febrero Huge waves Cuyatlan, Colima & Turtle Sanctuary
For 20 pesos each we bought tickets for the Turtle Sanctuary in Cuyatlan. It was like a small resort, with its own (salt water, we think) pool for guests and access to the beach with huge waves. The turtles are endangered in the wild, and hunting them or selling any part of them is prohibited but it still takes place. The sanctuary raises the turtles and releases them into the wild to help repopulate them.
3 Febrero - need dry bags
We need some way of carrying our valuables with us while we are wading or swimming at the beach. It is a drag if one of us has to stay on the beach while the other swims. I think maybe a sports store will have something waterproof we can wear.
3 Febrero - Pulling out of Manzanillo
One of many skinny dogs we see all over the place. They greedily eat any baked goods we toss, usually because they looked good but then we realized they are too sweet.
We are planning to head south of Manzanillo tonight although we might end up getting an inexpensive place in town. We try to get places around the 100 peso range, this usually includes a private bathroom.
3 Febrero - heavy traffic from Santiago to Manzanillo
It was horrendous getting from Santiago around Manzanillo´s port to the downtown. There are several lanes of busy traffic and as usual no shoulder. We were occasionally tempted to ride on the sidewalk but the sidewalk ends here and there unexpectedly so I didn´t do that much. We survived, at least.
2 Febrero - Ride to Santiago / Manzanillo
Unusual for Mèxico, we enjoyed a generously sized shoulder for the ride south into Manzanillo, Colima.
Bananas are cheap here, around 6 pesos per kilo. You can see why with the large banana plantations.
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A motorist from Guadalajara with his family at a small store insisted on buying us 2 coconuts to try, normally 5 pesos each.
At the beach in Santiago, Colima near Manzanillo Jen was wading in the water and was hit by surprise by a large wave. She lost her expensive glasses in the water. I thought they were gone for good but she put on her swim goggles and found them about 10 meters off shore. I was amazed, as were the nearby RVers.
The Mexican government to its credit seems to be spending quite a bit of effort and money improving its road network. Some of these roads even have shoulders.
2 Febrero - Casa de Huespedes Mike´s in Santiago
A French Canadian lady RVer told us we were in Manzanillo but instead we were in Santiago, so we quit riding about 20km early. We found a nice room with private bath at Casa de Huespedes Mike´s. The manager initially wanted 200 pesos but I talked her down to 100. The water wasn´t hot but at that price in a touristy area I didn´t worry about it.
1 febrero - Katadyn Vario water filter cracks
I noticed that the Katadyn Vario water filter we have been using has 2 cracks in the spindle that holds the pump handle. For now, I have bypassed the ceramic prefilter which prevents water spraying all over the place but the filter cartridge wears out faster. That doesn´t matter now because Jen will return the filter to REI when she returns to the states. It did have a number of innovative features, like pumping on the upstroke and downstroke and the combination ceramic and glass filters. Unfortunately, the design was not robust enough for our purposes.
Recent weather - hotter
We were lucky to have a break from the hot weather while we were in PV. Since then, we have had some clear days and it has been quite hot. We are trying to get up a bit earlier and take a siesta in the middle of the day like Mexicans do to avoid the heat. Of course, it would be much hotter outside of winter.
1 febrero - Telaque
Telaque Jalisco is a pleasant town, though not undiscovered by tourists. It is much safer and saner for biking than Puerto Vallarta.
We have been eating well and at a reasonable price in Mèxico, because we are eating locally grown and produced items. Imported items, like nuts and grapes are expensive. Oranges, Mandarin Oranges, Avocados, Bananas, Papayas are cheap. It is easy to boil shrimp with a small stove which makes some nice tacos, although taking the shells of is labor intensive.
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