Day 85 (Sat 09/30) Eureka to Middlegate junction, help from Yuri
We passed Mt. Airy and New Pass today. We got a strong headwind mid-day which slowed us quite a bit. Mag's friend Yuri came from Reno and carried our gear for half the day and brought sandwiches and fruit which was very nice.
Near Middlegate there was a huge tree of shoes which people had thrown up there, and it is a popular passtime to add new shoes.
We had dinner with Yuri at middlegate (will post photos when I can). Yuri paid which I think he shouldn't have done but I let it go because Mag & Yuri go back years.
Mag and Yuri slept in Yuri's car, and I camped behind the restaurant (where there were other trailers and RVs). They provided a shower and didn't even charge us. I think they do charge RVers and people with trailers.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 85 (Sat 09/30) Yuri in Middlegate. NV
Yuri eats dinner with Mag & me in Middlegate, Nv.
Labels: Bike Touring, Hospitality
Day 85 (Sat 09/30) Mt Airy & New pass summits
I took these photos with Mag's RAZR which for some reason reverses the pictures.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 84 (Fri 09/29) Eureka, NV to Austin, NV
This was a fairly tough day. I'm still recovering from the previous day of 80 miles and 4 passes, and I didn't fully recharge my sleep.
Despite the arid climate, there are quite a few flies. They find me when going up hill or stopping and they like buzzing around my head or landing on me, presumably to get the moisture.
It is hot today, over 30C although much cooler than during midsummer.
Today we did 3 passes, one small one and 2 passes in close proximity with a little dip in between. Hickison summit was 6546', Bob Scott 7267', and lastly Austin was 7484'.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 84 (Fri 09/29) Cyclist Jerry, Pastor Barney
Photos: Top - Jerry from Reno was touring on about $10 a day with the most heavily loaded bike I have seen in a while. Bottom - Pastor Barney of the Austin 1st Baptist Church let us sleep in the sanctuary and provided a shower. We spoke for over an hour about his faith and history.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 84 (Fri 09/29) - 3 summits Eureka to Austin
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 84 (Fri 09/29) morning in Eureka
I got up at 05:30 and didn't get back to sleep because I knew Mag's alarm would start going off at 06:00. In any case, I feel rested perhaps because I got plenty of sleep when we were in Ely. I'm having the continental breakfast at the motel then Mag and I will hit the road perhaps about 07:30 for the 70 mile ride from Eureka, NV to Austin, NV. There is one major pass which will be steep but only one so we should be fine.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 83 (Thu 09/28) arrival in Eureka, NV (no photos)
(Can't post photos, no mobile coverage in Eureka, NV)
It was another long day but we made it over 4 passes and 78 miles in one day (Robinson Pass 7,607', Pancake 6,517', Little Antelope 7,438', Pinto 7,376'). I started to slow down in the late morning but I started snacking which helped my energy level. As usual, I would ride ahead of Mag a few hundred meters and then wait for her to catch up. Mag and I agree that Milford, UT to Baker, NV a few days ago was tougher for us but today was plenty tough.
The US highway 50 so called "lonliest highway in America" today was anything but. There were 55 cyclists with on the "Oatbran" tour (One Awesome Tour Bike Ride Across Nevada), their support vehicles, Semis carrying oversized loads with their pilot cars, regular semis, and plenty of trucks, motorcycles, RVs and passenger cars.
Speaking of Oatbran, the eastbound riders crossing Nevada on hwy 50 in 5 days eastbound with support invited us to lunch at the rest stop. Curtis, the Event Director for "Bike the West" (http://www.bikethewest.com) set us up with sandwiches and drinks n stuff and we talked with him, the other support people, and the riders for a while when we were eating our lunch. I'll post the photo of Curtis, Mag & me when I get service.
We made it to Eureka (population: about 500) around 18:00 and got a few groceries at the small grocery store in town before it closed at 19:00. Then we had dinner at the Owl Club & Steak House (61 N Main St Eureka, NV 89316 775-237-5280). She had a "deluxe" cheeseburger & fries; I had a halibut burger & fries. It was busy and took them a while to serve us which was a slight problem because it is a smoking establishment and both Mag & I were grossed out. Cost: about $14 for 2 with tip.
2 lodging establishments in Eureka were closed and 2 others were full. There were only 2 rooms left at the only place in town with any vacancies: The Best Western Eureka (251 N Main St Eureka, NV 89316 775-237-5247). The room was $80 for 2 with tax, the most we have ever paid for a single night on our trip. Worse, they had only smoking rooms available, but we took it. Neither of us felt like camping after a tough day, with another not quite as tough 1 steep pass 70-mile day.
The room itself is OK though pretty boring compared with the suite we had last night at Hotel Nevada. At least there is a spa (which I plan to use) and internet computer (which I am using right now, since there is no GSM service in Eureka).
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 83 Robinson pass, Oatbran lunch
Oatbran 55 cyclist ride supported across Nevada have us free lunch. Curtis the coordinator is pictured.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 83 (Thu) 4 passes & 80 mi to Eureka
I got up about 0630, Mag was up a bit earlier. We're thinking about the 4 mountain pass/80 mile day to Eureka which will be a long day. I'm carrying 2 jugs and 2 nalgene bottles of water. We're off at 0800.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 82 (Wed 09/27) working on bike, reading "Universe"
So far today has been a good day. I've been spending time at the library but reading books rather than on the computer all the time. Even if I'm reading something educational like wikipedia I burn out on it; I seem to have more endurance with books so I'll do more reading when in the library on the remaining rest days before SF. I did some adjustments on my bike; later I will lube my chain with the White Lightning Epic I bought today and replace the most repaired of my 20" tubes with the new one.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 82 (Wed 09/27) rest day in Ely, NV
Today we're resting in Ely, NV at the suite Mag scored for us at the 1929 historic Hotel Nevada. I'll be at the library using internet and catching up on my reading, and listening to music. I bought some White Lightning Epic lube and an extra 20" and 26" tube for my bike.
I haven't had luck posting photos here in Ely. Although I have voice signal the data signal is weak. I'll try posting a few more tonight but they might get corrupted.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 82 my room at Hotel Nevada (Ely)
The bunk bed in my room at our suite at the Hotel Nevada (my room has a bunk and a twin bed, Mag's room has a Queen bed). I have my own sink and toilet though I shower in Mag's bathroom.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 81 (Tue 09/26) soul sucking bandits
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 81 (Tue 09/26) Pile on the salad at Hotel Nevada
Mag and I ate dinner at the Hotel Nevada restaurant ($23 for 2 with tax&tip). I had the meatloaf special and Mag had spaghetti. Mine came with 1 trip to the salad bar so I piled on the food as high as the laws of physics would allow.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 81 (Tue 09/26) Ely gambling, suite Hotel Nevada
I have mobile service in Ely but my data connection isn't good so I can't post photos.
Nevada wouldn't be Nevada without desperate people gambling money they can't afford. Ely has 8,000 people and several casinos and lots of lodging. There aren't Vegas style shows to the best of my knowledge as it is much smaller.
I was planning to stay at the fire station (I was lucky to get that, there isn't so much hospitality here since it is a real city) but Mag found a suite in the 1929 historic Hotel Nevada for only $40 w tax for 2 so I changed my mind since the fire station storage is pretty meager, really. This is our first suite except for huge host family houses.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 81 (Tue 09/26) To Ely, Nv on hwy 50; Sacramento (7154') & Connors (7722') passes
We're on hwy 50, the so-called 'lonliest highway in America'. We are going from Baker to Ely, about 68 miles and 2 passes without services. We left Baker before the grocery store opened so we have only PBJ tortillas for food (and food that needs cooking like pasta and backpacker meals). I was hungry but after the 1st pass Sacramento 7154' we ate PBJs so I have energy now. Next pass Connors 7722'.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 80 (Mon 09/25) Baker, Nv Josh & cafe dinner
We arrived in Baker, Nv around 18:15 just after the small town grocery had already closed. So we ate at the Lectrolux cafe (about $35 for 2 with tax&tip) with another cyclist named Josh who had already done the full Pacific Coast Hwy and was now seeing if if could cross the country eastbound before the weather became too cold (we had heard that things had become very cold behind us in Utah and Colorado. I can imagine it would be very ugly at the 11,312' Monarch pass summit).
We stayed at the Silver Jack Inn ($50 for 2) which was small and had paper thin walls so we could hear the conversations in the other units. But it wasn't bad and in any case it was the only motel in town. Terry the owner of both Lectrolux and Silver Jack let Josh camp free behind the motel and he got a shower for $2 at the gas station. I'd like to try camping again if the weather warms up; my sleeping bag is rated only down to 35 F.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 80 (Mon 09/25) Hello Nevada! (Pacific Time) 3 passes and 84 miles to Baker, Nv
Hello Nevada! The riding has been tough today getting here. We have ridden about 76 miles over 3 mountain passes (6460',6460' & 6240') and have another 8 miles to Baker, NV. Each pass individually wasn't as tough as Colorado or Utah but taken together and with the mileage they were very tiring. A curious German couple asked us questions and gave us water earlier which helped out since we were running low on water.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 80 (Mon 09/25) Eastbound Cyclist encounter Jim
Jim has already ridden the southern tier this spring (he started in March just like me and went eastbound just like I did in 2004). He thought the road surfaces were rough and didn't like it too much. Now he's on his way east through Utah on his way to Boulder Co. He has done 1 of 3 passes and 50 out of 84 miles to his daily destination of Milford, Ut where we started today.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 79 (Sun 09/24)Cedar City to Milford (Ut)
The terrain changed dramatically since Cedar City becoming more desert like with the huge basin-ridge pattern typical of Nevada (but we are still in Utah). We were climbing a lot and had a headwind the second half. I looked for housing in Milford but couldn't find anyone so we got a double at the Affordable Motel ($46 for 2) and had a grocery dinner of spare ribs, canned veggies and rice.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 79 (Sun 09/24) Planning for Milford tonight.
We are planning to spend the night in Milford, UT tonight, with a lunch stop in Minersville, UT.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 79 (Sun 09/24) Into the desert
I have mobile coverage a little while longer. Today is likely our last full day in Utah before Nevada. Already the trees are gone replaced by scrub like bushes as we transition to arid climate. Both Mag and I are talking to friends while coverage lasts.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 78 (Sat 9/23) Cedar City lasagna feast for 4
Our host Kyle, friend Bosh, Mag & me quickly devoured Mag's homemade lasagna. By comparison, my salad was a slow mover although that was partly because stores have pulled all the spinach due to the e-coli scare.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 78 (Sat 09/23) Lasagna at Chez Kyle
We're staying at Kyle's in Cedar City for one more night, then heading to Milford, UT near the Nevada border tomorrow. Mag is making lasagna from ground beef, pasta ribbons, mushrooms, pasta sauce, and several types of cheese. She's putting ingredients in layers into the pan before she bakes it.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 78 (Sat 09/23) Cedar City Parade
Everybody is on Main Street for the parade. A lot of the 'floats' (usually pickup trucks) are related to Southern Utah University.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 78 (Sat 09/23) Resting at Kyle's in Cedar City
During our ride yesterday Mag & I both got chilled. On top of that I walked for about am hour last night in the cold to get my tire shipment from the other end of town and was coughing. Cheryl, the owner of the Blue Pine motel in Panguitch is letting us stay with her son, Kyle, in Cedar City. Kyle is a student at Southern Utah. We plan to rest today and run errands and leave tomorrow.
Labels: Bike Touring, Hospitality
Day 77 (Fri 09/22) 30F,tourist car, freezing descent
I am shivering and my hands and feet hurt from the cold when they aren't numb. I'm wearing just about everything I have including socks on my hands but it is useless at 30F + wind chill. A tourist near Cedar Breaks (which we were too cold to look at) let us warm in his car and cranked up the heat. Unfortunately, that warmth evaporated from our bodies again within minutes of our descent. Neither Mag could enjoy the descent because it was even colder because of wind chill though at least eventually warmer at lower altitude. My hands were so cold they were numb, and when I sat on them to warm them up so I could operate my brakes during the 8% downhill, they hurt because of the cold. My feet were cold too and my body was shivering.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 77 (Fri 09/22) So cold for the big climb
This has been a tough day. We had breakfast at Roy's Country Corner and set off on the hilly 60 mi journey over the 10,500' Cedar Mountain to Cedar City. There has been more climbing than Monarch Pass in Co. We shared lunch with the Woman Tours group at the Panguitch Lake lodge and warmed ourselves (so cold, and getting colder as we climb). Near the summit in the Dixie Natl Forest the Aspens were turning gold. We had some light snowfall but it didn't impede us.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 76 (Thu 09/21) Ruby's Inn to Panguitch
We couldn't stay long in Bryce Canyon or do much hiking because we wanted to bike another 21 miles and stay in Panguitch that night. With the winds and storms we were nervous to finish our lunch in Ruby's Inn and hit the road. In Panguitch, I looked for a host family through the LDS church but 1 bishop was busy & 1 was out of town. We got a good deal from Cheryl (sp?) at the Blue Pine motel ($44 for 2, about $9 off rack rate) because business was slow.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 76 (Thu 09/21) Ruby's Inn & Bryce Canyon
Mag got up at 0600 but I was lazy and stayed in bed until 0645. We had toast at the Grand Staircase Inn and hit the road. We rode 5 miles to Tropic and then 10 uphill to Ruby's Inn, a sprawling tourist complex of lodging, restaurants, and trinket shops adjacent to Bryce Canyon. To save our legs for the ride to Panguitch after seeing Bryce Canyon, we hitched to see the scenic lookouts (ironically the driver had a national park pass so we saved the $10/person fee).
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 76 (Thu 09/21): Leaving Staircase Inn, Cannonville, UT
Mag got up at 06:00 and was rummaging around getting her stuff ready, I was awake but rose around 06:45. Our plan is to get some toast at the motel office and hit the road to get a real breakfast at Ruby's Inn near Bryce Canyon.
The weather report says winds will continue today but less intense than before (from the NW).
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 75 (Wed 09/20) arrive & stay in Cannonville, Ut
After tiring hours of fighting winds, we arrived in Cannonville, UT. For some reason lodging within driving distance of Bryce canyon was in high demand that night and most accomodation except $100+ per night was full in Cannonville (only the Grand Staircase Inn), Tropic, and Ruby's Inn was full. I looked but couldn't find a host family but Mag talked Carlin the owner of the Grand Staircase Inn into giving us a room for $50 instead of $100 (out of pity, but nice work anyway, Mag) so we stayed in Cannonville even though we knew we would have to cycle 15 miles to Ruby's Inn/Bryce Canyon, see Bryce and then cycle to Panguitch tomorrow.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 74-75 (Wed 09/20) Escalante with Griffins
The Griffins (Mr. Griffin pictured) let us stay in their trailer and made us breakfast in the morning. Thank you for making us welcome in Escalante.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 75 (Wed 09/20) Cycling Utah (compare with Colorado)
Utah is like nothing I have ever seen. I would say that southern Utah has the greatest diversity of landscapes of any US state or anywhere else I have travelled. Mere mountains created by vulcanism and plate techtonics are nothing like this. You just can't understand how some of the things you are seeing are even possible as natural formations (they seem like they should fall down).
However, Utah has been the most challenging part of the tour. In some areas, there can be up to 75 miles between services and there is often nothing, not houses or ranches, in between towns. Grades are up to 14%, much higher than the about 6% going up to the Colorado and overall high point Monarch pass (11,312') in Colorado. There has been a crazy storm blowing through here, and the headwinds are intense, more difficult than in Kansas and we're climbing at the same time. For some reason, lots of tourists are visiting in September so accomodation (regular motel rooms) is tighter than elsewhere on our tour. Lastly, there is no GSM cell coverage so you can't call anybody if you get into trouble.
Despite the challenges, I'm not sorry for a second that I came here. Ever since riding the event tour "Cycle Washington" in 2002 and hearing the cyclists talking about the Cycle Utah ride, I have wondered what it would be like to cycle here.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 75 (Wed 09/20) Escalante to Cannonville, UT (no photos)
(No GSM coverage area, can't post photos)
Last night I spent about 1/2 an hour talking with Mr. Munssen from the LDS church about their faith. I found it quite worthwhile but I will spare the details here.
Mag and I were about to hit the road in the morning from the Griffin's trailer when Mrs. Griffin invited us to have breakfast in their house. Of course, Mag and I accepted. We had eggs, tomatoes, toast, and potatoes. Afterwards, Mr. Griffin played the guitar and sang (I was impressed he was actually pretty good).
We had headwinds right out of Escalante. Obviously headwinds and climbing, often the steep grades here in Utah, make for slow going. On top of that the winds were chilly. Mag's computer said we were averaging 6 mph. Typically, I would ride a bit ahead of Mag so that I can ride at a pace more comfortable for me, then wait for her to catch up (I wasn't doing that last week when I was sick, I could barely keep up with her and often she had to wait for me). I could see Mag's look of determination and gritted teeth as she fought the winds, but it took a lot out of her.
Around 14:30 we arrived in Cannonville, famished the both of us. Our intended destination for the day was Ruby's Inn so that we would be right next to Bryce Canyon to see tomorrow. We bought some food and ate at the convenience store, while the store lady mentioned that accomodation was very tight everywhere around Ruby's Inn. For some reason, in September tourists were descending on southern Utah in force and this took us by surprise. The lady mentioned a price of $150.00 for one of the few remaining rooms in Ruby's Inn and $100.00 here in Cannonville at the Grand Staircase Inn (named after the Grand Staircase National Monument). The Grand Staircase Inn owner Carlin ended up calling places all over the area and nearly all were full including the next town of Tropic. I hit the bricks to ask local residents if they could house us (we had given up proceeding to the next town and decided we were happy to get lodging in Cannonville).
Ultimately, Mag talked Carlin down from his price of $100.00 to only $50.00 since he took pity on us puny cyclists. We gratefully accepted and are staying at the Grand Staircase Inn tonight if anyone needs to reach us.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 75 (Wed 09/20) fighting headwinds to Ruby's Inn
Our intent was to ride from Escalante to Ruby's Inn, however the strong winds are making progress difficult. Headwinds are the most discouraging thing on a bicycle.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 74 (Tue 09/19) Escalante Petrified Forest
Mag examines a large chunk of Petrified wood during our short roughly 2 mile hike at the Escalante Petrified forest.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 74 (Tue 09/19) Recumbent cyclist encounter
John on his Rans Tailwind was touring Southern Utah much as we were on his way to Santa Fe, Nm.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 74 (Tue 09/19) morning photos of Boulder, UT
Photos: top - Ancestral Puebloan site in Boulder. Bottom - steep grades climbing out of Boulder.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 74 (09/19) Escalante, UT (no cell coverage)
I was up at night thinking about how I contributed to the fight with Mag. Obviously she needs her space, especially when she's tired so I need to respect, and adapt, to her needs better than I have been.
There was a Woman Tours van (http://www.womantours.com) parked at the motel so we chatted with the ladies on their bike tour around Utah. They were on day 16 on a tour out of St. George Utah and had just a few days to go.
Nice ride today from Boulder, UT into Escalante although it wasn't as easy as I expected based on looking at the topographic Adventure Cycling map. There was quite a bit of climbing though it was rewarding because of the spectacular views and descents, such as the Hogback with down grades up to 14%.
We're staying with a nice older couple, the Griffins, they are members of the LDS church. They are letting us stay in their trailer (Maggie took a shower inside the house). I was curious to find out more about the LDS people; as the "regular" Christians & LDS people don't mix very much.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 73 (Mon 09/18) Dinner at Burr Trail (Boulder)
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 73 (Mon 09/18) Eric the cyclist, Boulder summit
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 73 (Mon 09/18) Climb boulder mtn
It was so cold in the morning. There has been a wave of cold air passing over Utah. Fortunately, it makes the temperatures very moderate during the day but means it freezes at night.
We had breakfast at the Cap Reef Inn & Cafe. There was a huge sustained climb up Boulder Mountain into Dixie National Forest. My health was OK with no stomach problems.
We reached the summit of 9,400' at 16:00. There was a long descent to Boulder which is very quiet & cute & remote.
We stayed at the Pole's Place Inn ($73 for 2). We had dinner at the Burr Trail restaurant. Mag was tired and well to make a long story short we got into a bit of a fight. The usual thing with us, we have very different personality types so sometimes it causes problems.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 72 (Sun 09/17) Hanksville to Torrey, UT
We had breakfast with french toast at Blondie's. During the morning ride, we stopped at Mesa Food Market; Mag had a smoothie and we both bought fruit. Look on Mag's blog for a photo of Ralph the proprietor. We had a picnic lunch at a rest stop and I was so hungry. I devoured a ham sandwich.
After we arrived at Capitol Reef national park which was to be our final destination, we took a 1 mile hike to see Hickman natural bridge. It was worth it but after biking we were even more tired & hungry. Later we picked apples in the Fruita Historic District ($1 per pound, we each got a pound of Golden Delicious). See Mag's blog for photo picking apples.
The campground was full. I had experience with state parks where they don't turn away cyclists but apparently at national parks they don't care that you're on a bicycle. I was so surprised that in a huge national park they could deny cyclists a place to stay, I almost lost my composure. I was tired and hadn't recovered my full strength, and Mag could ride no more, so we couldn't tackle the 11 mile uphill to Torrey, UT. Ranger Plants (will post photo later) drove us and our bikes in his pickup the 11 miles to Torrey, UT where we got lodging and a nice dinner at the Rimrock cafe & inn (lodging: $65 for 2, dinner, about $45 for 2).
We didn't make up the mileage from the Capitol Reef park, so yes, in effect we "cheated" but I'm OK with it. We were stuck in an awkward situation.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 72 Ranger Plants takes us to Torrey
Ranger Plants evacuates us to the Rimrock Cafe & inn in Torrey.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 72 (Sun 09/17) Hickman Bridge hike
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 72 Hanksville to Capitol Reef (and cyclist encounter with "Tarzan")
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 71 (Sat 09/16) eating 2 dinners at Blondie's
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 71 (Sat 09/16) Hite to Hanksville UT
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 71 (Sat 09/16) Hite to Hanksville, UT - narrative
We packed up our tent pretty early at the Ranger Station at Hite Recreation area. No ranger bothered us during the night. I figured if one had came by he/she would take pity on us because of the furious winds blowing all night.
We had a breakfast of Tuna & Rice then left the park. We had nice scenery and a big climb with a 12% upward grade. A headwind picked up, unfortunately.
There was a cool honeycomb pattern on the rocks; look on Mag's blog for the photo since I can't post. We were going up most of the day.
17 miles from Hanksville the grade levelled but there was still a headwind. The terrain changed to semi arid scrub. My stomach is almost 100%; I was hungry early in the day but a lunch of Peanut Butter and Jelly sandwiches at a rest stop helped. The ride was long because of the headwind. We stayed at the Value Inn ($65 for 2). In some of these small tourist towns in Utah the accomodation is a bit more expensive than the around $40 for 2 we've seen elsewhere.
Labels: Bike Touring
Day 70 (Fri 09/15) Natural Bridges to Hite
Photos: hwy 95 west near Glen Canyon and encounter with 3 Suomi cyclists travelling east from SF to New York. We offered then water on our way to Hite because we were going downhill with favorable winds.
Labels: Bike Touring
